Tooling Set, Yak 18T Spinner Bulkhead Repair
Watch the video to see how these tools are used to replace the damaged center hole in a Yak 18T Spinner and replace it with an Aluminum part.
youtu.be/Ydvfk0wXVxQ
Eliminate annoying vibration and save that classic spinner !
Documentation, Yak 18T Spinner Bulkhead Repair
Watch the video to see how these tools are used to replace the damaged center hole in a Yak 18T Spinner and replace it with an Aluminum part.
youtu.be/Ydvfk0wXVxQ
Eliminate annoying vibration and save that classic spinner !
Wrench, Prop blade, Vperod and Houssai
Set the correct blade collar torque on your Vperod or Houssai propeller.
(Always follow Manufacturer's recommended torque settings )
Back in stock...get yours now !!
Wrench, Crankshaft, M14-P with Russian Flange
Zinc plated 4130 crankshaft wrench with half inch drive.
Note there are M14-p motors that have been adapted with American flanges. This is for the original Russian Flange only.
Unfortunately Nanchang with Houssai motor uses a splined shaft and not a Flange. This wrench cannot be used.
Bolts shown NOT SUPPLIED.
Back in stock...get yours now
AK-50 air compressor removal tool set
Waterjet cut, welded, normalized, heat treated and plated, these two wrenches are faithul to the original Russian dimensions and materials.
Only those who have wasted a day on this task using the wrong tools will appreciate the right ones.
Five nuts and washers yield to the long curved tool with ease, but unless you have this short wrench, you'll be spending a lot longer than necessary on the sixth.
(If it's your first time tackling the job, we recommend removing the section of the exhaust that includes the heater muff, followed by the sheet metal blast duct which guides cold air onto the head of the compressor. Might seem like wasted effort until you have freed the compressor and need to maneuver it for removal or to get at that sheared coupling. )
And, if you've already attempted the job without the correct tools, you'll know that taking these six nuts off, was only half the fun.
Baffle, Oil Radiator Inlet, Yak 52
Don’t tolerate oil temperature needles in the low caution range when you fly - land and do something about it. Remember, however chilly you feel on the ground, what matters is the temperature of the colder air aloft, blasting across your Oil Radiator at 130 knots.
In combination with the radiator outlet door, this ground-adjustable Oil Radiator blanking plate will keep your Yak’s oil in the green in the coldest months of the South Western US winter.
Further East and into the Midwest, if your oil Temperature needle hasn’t moved into the green during the run up, you can shut down, remove the plate & flatten up to four of the flaps to block even more cold air from entering your Oil Radiator.
Just to get us all on the same page, this ground adjustable baffle plate is designed to be bent once - to find the sweet spot for your Winter conditions, rather than to be adjusted every flight.
How many times can you bend a flap before the material will crack?
Three times.
And don’t forget to remove this baffle when warmer Springtime weather comes...
Made from 5052-T32 Aluminum, riveted and anodized. Three rubber buffers, screwed to the rear face, prevent damage to the face of the Oil Radiator core.
Yak Instrument Panel green - Color plus Matte Clear Coat aerosol system
Skip the hassle of trying to match 'THAT' green for your new Instrument Panel ....TYC has done a digital color match for you!
This classic, calming shade is PPG's Omni Acrylic Urethane basecoat with integral converter. Links to detailed instructions for its correct application come with purchase.
By itself, this colored basecoat will be very fragile so a Matte Clearcoat ( 2 part- mix in the aerosol) also with instructions, is included.
Color aerosol contains 115 milliliters ( 4 fluid ounces), the Matte Clearcoat contains 400 milliliters.
This product cannot be returned or refunded.
For customers outside the United States, aerosols must be shipped by other methods than by air.
Cylinder Base Nut Wrench, M14-P
When does a tool become...a precision instrument?
You actually know the moment you pick it up.
This wrench is a pattern of the field service tool included in Yak 52 toolboxes. The test of accuracy in reproduction wrench geometry is the cylinder base nut next to the sump, shown here.
But surely adding a half inch drive couldn’t hurt for accurate torque wrenching?
The factory spec for cylinder base nuts is 27.5 ft lbs ( Source: Termikas engine manual) but an informal survey we made of several well-respected Yak mechanics suggests many people are using closer to 45 ft lbs - the value for Lycoming cylinder base nuts. We tested this wrench to failure at beyond double that value.
Will you be able to break yours ?
If that’s what you set out to do, then certainly.
But if you treat this instrument with the same care as the other tools in your toolbox, then most likely it will neither break nor the socket’s 12 points become dull.
Not going to lie, we went down the Rabbit hole with metallurgy and heat treating on this one.
Want us to go into all the blah blah blah about grain structure and Brinell Hardness?
No, of course you don’t
You’ve already got a drawer-full of busted Chinese ones.
The Yak Collection - tools for a lifetime
Yak 50 / CJ Cooling Gill Louver Axle rework kit
This kit includes a re-usable plastic drill bushing template (plus three steel bushings with lock nuts) to repair Cooling Gills that have excessive movement because of wear in their axle support holes.
This template will accurately locate the center of the Gill Vane Axle before damage occurred.
After removing several Gills either side of the damaged location, lock your template in position.
Do this by pressing two of the short M4 Gill Vane Positioning Screws you just removed through the two smaller holes in the template and into aligned holes beneath.
A fence molded in to the template ensures correct edge distance.
These hardened drill bushings will keep your 5/16” diameter drill bit centered and on a true perpendicular axis. Remember to remove material with the least drill pressure required because the plastic template may soften if excess heat is generated.
Insert the hex head of the new axle support bushing next to the lower end of the Gill Vane and secure the bushing on its far side with the MS21042-4 locknut supplied.
Use a 100 degree piloted countersink to prepare the outer fishplate for the newer Yak 52 style Axle that has a slotted countersunk head.
Installing these bushings with a Yak 52 style axle eliminates the lower double locknuts which are difficult to adjust - creates a robust bearing surface between the aluminum ring and the new steel bushing and provides easy axle tension adjustment using a flat blade screwdriver.
New Yak 52 style Axles and individual bushings w / locknuts are available.
Yak 50 / CJ Cooling Gill Louver Axle- Additional Repair bushing w 1 Locknut
This steel bushing is used to repair Cooling Gills that have excessive movement due to worn axle support holes.
For more about this part, read about the parent kit with template
Customers also bought New Yak 52 style Axles.
Baffle, Oil Radiator Inlet, Yak 50
Unlike the Yak 18T, 52 or 55, no provision was made on the factory Yak 50’s fiberglass Oil Cooler scoop for fitting a cold weather blocking panels.
These days, many Yak 50’s are to be found outside of Mother Russia, fulfilling a different mission in their new homes. Owners may find this device a useful modification that will keep your oil temperature in the green arc during the few months of the year that require it.
Just like TYC’s baffle for the 52, those four vertical tabs may be bent back to further block the exposed area of the Oil Cooler. The intent is to adjust them to find the sweet spot for your local winter operating conditions - then leave them at that angle. They are not intended nor will they survive more than 3 bending cycles.
This kit includes:
- 2 securing wire clips,
- a fixed hinge section that gets riveted to the lower mouth of the radiator scoop plus
- 2 upper clips that you rivet to the upper roof of the radiator scoop opening.
- 9 pop rivets are provided for installation.
- the baffle itself, with rubber mounts that go against the Oil Cooler face,
The baffle is anodized blue to distinguish it from the equivalent Yak 52 part. The two clips and fixed hinge are supplied clear anodized so you can paint them to match your oil scoop.
Installation.
1.Begin by placing the hinged assembly (as delivered) in situ.
2.With the rubber buffers firmly against the radiator fins, use a drill & Clecos to position the lower hinge ensuring the door appears centrally placed.
3.Next line up the small clips with the two prongs along the upper edge of the Oil baffle. The small joggles in the clip face downward & overlap the prong, preventing them from moving forward.
4.The two rivet holes in these upper clips are close together and use of Clecos may not be possible. Secure both these fixed upper clips with four of the nine pop rivets provided.
5.The pins of the wire clips are designed to be passed through the formed hinge holes from the center, outwards so the wire overlapping takes place at the outer edge of the baffle plate.
6.To release the baffle plate, after removing the wire clips, rotate the lower edge of the baffle forward toward you 45 degrees or so.
7.Move the baffle downward slightly so the upper prongs clear the upper clips, then remove it.
8.To install the baffle, first remove the wire clips then rotate the upper edge away from you as you engage the upper prongs behind the joggles of the upper fixed clip.
9.Swing the lower edge down until the hinge holes line up and secure the plate with the wire clips.
Make inspection of these wire clips part of your daily pre-flight, so that as the weather becomes warmer you do not overlook whether the baffle is still necessary for flight.