There are four washers in this pack - the one at the top shown purple (item 32 in the diagram) is larger than the others - and two of the washer shown in blue are provided (because you’ll need to remove this one every time you release the banjo.)
For easy identification of these Blue duplicates, run your finger over the edge and you’ll feel two small pips.
If you are just re-installing the Banjo fitting after maintenance, grab the third - the one shown in yellow. This will easily slip over the stem and lives up against the stem’s hex; then install the banjo fitting over the stem.
We’re departing from the specified design here because as you can see from the background diagram in the top image, part number 35 is on both sides of the banjo, whereas we are providing different size washers ( blue and yellow).
Install one of the washers with the two pips on its edge and straightaway you’ll notice this washer is a tight fit and needs to be twisted over the threads - this is intentional. As the cap nut tightens this joint, the extra material on the washer ID will deform into the the Banjo, improving the seal.
The same is true for the large washer ( shown purple in the image) You’ll only need to replace this if you needed to unscrew the stem from the Valve (item 31). It too will need to be ‘twisted’ over the threaded end of the stem.
The extra large washer sealing the valve (item 32) to the body of the compressor is not included in the kit.
We took the time to duplicate not just the material softness of the Russian original Crush washers but provided an exacting fit too, so you can install with confidence and be sure this critical, high vibration joint stays tight.
Torque this Banjo joint with sufficient pressure to deform all washers and remember to safety wire the cap nut upon completing installation.
The background diagram of the compressor is one of 21 images in the M14-P poster book which you can find here.
TYC is proud to offer affordable, 11 x 17 color sets of the late 1970’s M14-P/B training posters produced for DOSAAF either unbound, (so you can laminate), or spiral bound.
The bound version, with clear acetate front & rear covers, a title page & Table of contents, any of these 21 posters can be selected for study with the rest of the book folded back, making them essential either for the maintenance hangar or as a legit Coffee Table book you might give someone for the holidays.
This was not fifteen minutes at the color copier.
Original posters were flatbed scanned at high resolution and are presented here digitally printed at 300 dpi on substantial 12pt Matte coated stock.
The original Russian posters have some flaws. When item 25 of the Power Section diagram was described in the key as an “Intake Valve” but the arrow led to something more resembling a copper seal, we sleuthed the mixup and corrected them all.
The translations are of an extremely high quality and there were very few head scratchers, apart from maybe item 4 on the Air Starting system poster, where it took a minute to accept that the “Filling gun” was probably the fuel Primer.
Some deserve to be left alone, so that there will always be a little magic in the world, such as item 13 on the generator poster: ‘Electric Cardboard’
Original text was too small and illegible when shrunk from 36” x 24” down to 11” x 17”, so every specification table and number key to the parts has been recreated at a larger more readable font, and now hides the dual language original beneath.
Some things we could not fix. The beautiful Magneto poster depicts the advance retard type (M9-25/35) instead of the fixed timing M9F used on Yak 52’s. The carburetor poster lists 7 more parts than are enumerated on the drawing and while the lubrication poster is a masterpiece of colorful hot and cold oil flow paths through the sectioned motor, try to find “number 20. Oil pocket” on the original - you can’t do it, because although 25 items are listed in the key, not one arrow is there to tie described parts to the drawing. This, plus a truncated black detail arrow on the left edge, suggests the Lubrication poster originally had more real estate and was chopped at some stage. We have overlaid a key to the 11 items from the diagram that relate.
Individual versions of these posters, digitally printed on archival stock at 36 x 24, are available, however it would be best to gather a decent quantity from several interested customers to make this attractive for the printer... so please contact me by email @ firstname.lastname@example.org.
Several generous individuals have posted photos of these posters on social media, and, as I discovered when zoomed in, their text was Roumanian (?) only, and also a bit too blurry to read, - but at least you have a choice.
Not just the cost of the scans but the pre-press work described above is why we will not be offering electronic copies.
This business is how I feed our cats.
If you have ever had a Magneto coil go bad in the air, you’ll know it’s a dramatic & disturbing way to have a flight cut short. Old and overheating coils fail when adjacent layers of the internal wax/foil capacitor, deep in the winding, experience a short.
The run-up was fine but now, 20 minutes later, you’re at altitude, you’ve just completed some high power maneuvers when suddenly the engine dies completely or vibrates very badly. Reduced power may make the vibration disappear, but back on the ground and cooled down, the motor gives no evidence of any malfunction.
There’s no denying unreliable, aging coils are a potential safety issue.
The Yak Collection is proud to announce exclusive distributorship in US & Canada for Richard Goode Aerobatics’ new magneto coils.
In re-engineering this critical component, RGA obtained full EASA Certification through rigorous testing, also demonstrating 15-20% greater coil power output. Considering EASA is Europe's equivalent to the FAA, being able to certify a replacement component for a Russian magneto in 2020 is a real achievement.
Your unique coil is serialized and comes with its certificate of compliance in the package.
Different diameter mounting screws
These new coils have slots to suit one of two mounting screw sizes - so before ordering, determine whether your magneto has M5 or M3.5 screws holding the coil down into the magneto body. This will decide whether you need a coil with wide or narrow slots (see picture above) then use the drop down menu to choose the correct coil for your Magneto.
It was once true that fixed timing M9-F magnetos were all threaded for M5 coil mounting screws; while automatic advance / retard M9-25 and -35 magnetos, (and Chinese magnetos on Houssai engines), all had M3.5 screws. However, Magneto bodies with either thread size can be rebuilt up to either type of Magneto at overhaul, and this is exactly what has happened over the years.
Please don’t guess your coil’s slot width because electrical ignition components, while warrantied for performance, cannot be returned.
With the exception of the mounting slot width, the performance of all RGA Magneto coils is identical.
slot width identification
To easily identify your coil’s slot width you will need a flat bladed screwdriver that has a square or hex shaft, plus a wrench that fits.
Temporarily remove the P lead, above ( and make a mental note about how this affects anyone touching the prop) then remove the two rearward facing, long countersunk slotted head screws that secure the magneto coil cover.
The tight accessibility for the screwdriver’s handle near the engine Bearers, proximity to the oil cyclone for the left Mag, plus the generous contact area on those countersinks mean that mere mortals will find it hard to undo these two cover screws without the aid of a wrench on the screwdriver shaft.
Now, with the cover removed, finally you can compare the coil slot width against the images above and order the correct part with confidence.
removal and installation
Let’s proceed to removal and installation, once your new coil has arrived.
With the coil cover (mentioned above) removed, there is easy flat blade access to the two tab washers and hex head screws securing the coil.
To disconnect the coil electrically, you’ll also have to remove the larger horizontal cover over the rotor & distributor, which is safety wired. These covers have three hex head screws horizontally and four on the vertical front facing area where the ignition leads exit...a 9mm wrench takes care of all of them (and their heads are slotted also).
Take this opportunity to check that the pencil can be rotated freely. Lift up the distributor and rest it out of the way as you withdraw the pencil upward - just for the duration of swapping out old & new coils.
The Coil’s wire lug passes up through a hole in the magneto’s internal horizontal wall, where it attaches to the points; so release that screw....
...and if you have already removed the 2 screws holding down the coil, the old coil may be removed downward.
Installation is the reverse of removal and don’t forget to install the Pencil after the new Coil’s lead has been reattached to the points.
The lug from the capacitor on the new coil should be pushed onto the Hex head screw first, followed by the locking tab washer.
No need to get medieval with these slotted-head hold down screws, normal hand tightening with a screwdriver will suffice, in view of the security provided by the locked tab washer.
View RGA's full installation document here.
(Appropriate mounting screws and tab washers for your coil are supplied in the package.)
Replace and safety wire both covers as necessary.
* * * * * * * * * *
Please contact us prior to purchase with any questions you may have at 619 933-2571 since all sales of ignition and electronic parts are final.
TYC also stocks new RGA Rotors and Pencils for these Magnetos.
For Coil sales outside the US and Canada, please contact RGA here.
November 2nd 2020 and if winter has returned to much of the USA, here in Ramona, California - today, we've got 78 degrees under a cloudless sky.
It’s an 18 mile trek North from San Diego, and a 1500 foot climb up winding Highway 67 through the foothills; past new reservoirs and old peaks that would have given Westbound Settlers their first view of the Pacific.
Massive eucalyptus trees come together high above the middle of the road leading into this old Gold Rush town. Take a left on Montecito, out to the airport and you could imagine yourself on the set of a 1970’s Jack Nicholson Biker movie remake. Pass the last few houses, drive past livestock then a horseriding school as finally a Fire Tanker Base comes into view, an aviation boneyard, a quiet helicopter museum, then the Control Tower, all telling you you’ve arrived.
At the edge of town.
To the North, overlapping blue grey mountains disappear quietly into the sparkling haze, somewhere in the general direction of the San Bernardino County Line, fifty miles away.
This is where Vladimir Yestremski has his maintenance hangar.
Around noon, somebody doing an engine test cuts the mags, a Vedeneyev clanks down to silence, the riveting stops and workers gather around a table in the hangar.
Lunches are unpacked, scents of Slavic grains, fish sauces and fresh bread replace the normal aromas of the hangar. Colleagues munch and watch in silence as enormous Red Tailed Hawks out in the meadow get their lunch too.
As the drone of the bees emerges from the silence, this much tranquility can get a little heady.
It’s probably no surprise, given the foregoing, that Vladimir has been making his own honey for many years.
Around this lunch table, I’ve heard the bees’ story many times and there are always more questions to ask. Did you know, for example, that the females, the ones you see flying around, are the ones doing all the work? Searching, cleaning, protecting the hive.
(The males all lie around in the Ready Room, telling yarns and getting fat on Nectar until it’s time to go inseminating.)
After lunch, while airplane work inside the hangar reverts to Yak conditional inspections, to Wing fuel bladder refits and elevator bellcrank installations, beyond all that, Vlad has his girls out, working the corner.
Worldwide there are 4000 different types of Bee, so it's pretty incredible that 1600 of them live in California alone; and while you will have heard how those Bee populations are under attack, local apiarists / pollinators are making a huge difference to Bees' comeback and health.
Now you, too, can enjoy Vlad’s Yak Attack honey.
Go to the high-priced “locally sourced” grocery stores and you’ll definitely see local honey for sale. But because you’re the detailed type, you also noticed the word ‘Blended’ on the label.
No Blends here.
Vladimir’s girls do their collective honey thing in ten locations throughout the Ramona Oblast. The different flavors are determined by which blossoms are in season.
Wildflower honey with Comb added for the offbeat Connoisseur looking for a little crunch...
Mustard Flower honey with a unique back flavor to compliment the sweetness, that you won't forget.
Eucalyptus honey. Pungent and reminiscent of the forest, with undertones of menthol and caramel. Love it or hate it, this is the flavor of choice for those starting to experiment with Mead.
Wildflower honey. Everything the girls could find in the neighborhood. All the aromas of Orange blossom, Acacia with their light sweet characteristic taste.
2020....What a year.
If ever there was a time to stop and smell the roses, the first week of November has to be it.
Each 2 1/2lb Gross wt glass jars contain 2lb Net Weight of honey. They are shipped in drop-tested packaging and are only available to customers inside the US.
OK, maybe we could drop one off at a Crew Hotel in LA.
But you didn't hear it from me.
Thanks to one of our esteemed customers, TYC wishes to point out an error in the Yak 52 Fuel hose section of our website.
We erroneously juxtaposed images for the Yak 52 Primer and Manifold lines - This has been fixed.
Easy to remember...The Primer line originates from up high on the Starboard side of the firewall, snakes around the Oil tank to the Blower section. It is the longer of the two hoses at 1050mm long - see photo below.
The Manifold pressure line is shorter, at 750mm, and snakes around the left hand side of the generator when viewed from the cockpit.
Noticed that little Red ‘M’ at the bottom left corner of some products’ photos lately?
It’s new - and stands for MARKETPLACE, a free listing service for existing TYC customers to sell ( and buy) new or good-quality used Yak parts and tools to/from each other.
Let’s use this good looking PU-8 brake proportioning valve to explain how it works.
A lot of you have asked me to sell YOUR Yak stuff you have in the hangar on this website, so let's give it a try.
Unlike regular TYC store products, these Marketplace items will always be “Qty 1”.
If you are selling, you can check the TYC Marketplace website tab every day - because as soon as your PU-8 disappears, the item has sold. (We’ll re-list the next day if you have more than one to sell - but never post the same item concurrently to put two vendors in competition )
Email me photos of your clean, serviceable Yak Airframe & engine parts or tools you have for sale, (including one showing the shipment packaging you plan to use.) I’ll include your part’s Zipcode / Country from where it will ship in the webpage description...because TYC doesn’t need to inventory your item here in San Diego.
Next comes the most difficult part - because TYC must determine what is and is not suitable to put up on the site.
We all believe the things we want to monetize have great value but there will be times when TYC decides not to post certain parts. We may ask you more questions about them or request additional photos, but it goes without saying that there will be parts we turn down. Let’s hope we can stay friends when that happens.
Please don’t list parts you wouldn’t want your Wingman to go flying with.
Down to the mechanics of it.
Once you’ve supplied me photos and we have agreed a sale price ( which will include a small commission for TYC ) your item goes live using your photos.
We’ll also agree and document your part’s packaged size and shipping weight at the time of listing so shipping cost (which vary with buyer & seller’s location) can be calculated.
Unlike Facebook, the actual price is posted for all to see. No need to Private Message the seller and get involved in haggling.
Unlike Ebay there’s no listing fee and unlike Barnstormers your Ad doesn’t expire - but if your parts are not selling, we’ll probably be in touch to help.
When a customer purchases your Marketplace item, TYC collects your money from them, (including the cost of shipping to your buyer) and emails you a shipping label.
As soon as the carrier’s tracking information shows your item has been signed for, we’ll call the buyer to confirm they got what they expected- then the same day, send you electronically what is owed. (If you don’t have one already, we recommend you set up a Paypal, Venmo or similar electronic funds account.)
Stepping back from the big picture for a moment, you’ll agree everything about this market of Yak owners trading spare parts is....TINY, compared to other types of plane, or Certified aircraft parts for example.
This will never be big & complex like eBay.
TYC’s role will be to ensure buyers are absolutely clear about what they’re buying - because returns, refunds or credits just aren’t practical on this scale.
So why not just list on eBay?
Two reasons really.
While anyone viewing the site can BUY your item, You can be pretty sure the seller is vetted because, like you, they are an existing TYC customer, so probably a Yak owner - and second, like every transaction over the last three years, I’ll be putting my heart into make sure customers are satisfied!
Want to give it a try?
You’ll be surprised how many Yak fans there are, either one airport over or clear across the world, who need your stuff.
TYC Marketplace, uniting the right Yak people with the right Yak parts.
In preparing this product for easy installation, like other TYC products we wanted to leave only footprints.
Bastardizing your property on a permanent basis so we can save a few bucks in manufacture just isn’t how we roll.
That’s not because we’re in any doubt that you’ll absolutely love the convenience of the Hartwell latch Oil Door , or that you’ll ever want to go back to Dzus fasteners.
Just that you ( or the next owner) can if you want to.
With the exception of two holes you’ll need to drill, nothing is taken away from your bird that would prevent you returning it to stock condition.
And if you’re in the business of flying & not fixing, this is for you too. We truly have brought the installation burden down to filing one notch and drilling two holes.
Even if you don’t own a 100 degree aircraft countersink (so the heads of those screws can lie flush), we’re betting you know someone a few hangars down who can lend you one.
So please take a minute to read & follow the instructions included with the product.
That way you’ll never need to learn about the seventeen ways not to install it!
Which kind of CJ Pilot are you?
A. “Thank God Home Depot stays open late”
B “ Your cockpit has been visited by Atilla the Visegrip Avenger”
C” Shiny Things are better”
D “Authenticity Hardliner”
Whichever cap fits, TYC has new Repro CJ Instrument Panel securing screws to pimp your ride’s front and rear pit, whether you’re doing a custom panel with us or just tidying up “the office”.
In the Product page drop down box you can choose Stainless or Black Zinc finish.
That’s right, there AREN’T many CJ goodies on TYC, but we still respect you guys with your funky cranked wings.
That’s what it’s all about, right? Trying to walk a mile in the other guy’s shoes.
That CJ driver in the slot behind you has his Prop exactly as close to your tail skid as your tailskid is away from his Prop. This (flying) life of ours is not a dress rehearsal and a little trust goes a long way.
All Yak lives matter ! So what if Yak guys are never really going to understand Mixture levers that work in the wrong direction
You stay classy CJ Drivers!
In your Yak 52 or CJ, if most of your flights are solo, that instructor’s master gear valve in the rear cockpit probably isn’t getting much activity.
Consider taking a qualified GIB around the pattern from time to time just to give this five-port valve some exercise.
Because if you don’t, once the Gear Selector valve in the Rear Pit starts leaking or just gives out - and subsequently gets opened up for inspection.. you might be surprised to find a fetid little mess like this inside.
And if you & your ‘new to you’ 52 or CJ are just getting to know each other, the design of the Instructor’s and Student’s gear control system are an important piece of Yak lore you’ll want to learn.
Just like that mysterious little push button on the top of the rear control column ( on which, more later), significant thought was given to providing essential landing, go-around and braking control for Instructors charged with the training & safety of DOSAAF students.
When you fly solo, the rear pit’s gear lever should be in the middle detent. In this position, the front pit gear valve has complete control of gear position. There are no squat switches on these planes - the gear does what the lever tells it to, any where, any time.
If you ever get to fly with Gennady Elfimov, (and fail to check rear pit gear lever position prior to your next solo flight), you will join the ‘stiff leg’ club, because Gena lowers the instructor’s gear lever EVERY TIME during the landing phase, as soon as he’s seen the Student lower the gear - and it remains down during the taxi back & shutdown.
This was standard DOSAAF training procedure and applies just as much today.
Take off solo with that rear pit lever in the down position and you can put your front gear lever anywhere you like.
The Gear is staying down.
To put it another way, an important part of any Rear pit passenger brief (for non-pilots) might include “- and leave THAT lever right there completely alone”
This gear lever functionality has created so much angst for some 52 owners that it’s not uncommon to see the rear pit gear lever locked to neutral with an aftermarket plate preventing any movement at all. This can often be spotted alongside rear mags wired to 1 plus 2 (just the sight of which gives some people chills in the worst way).
Locked rear gear levers are a recipe for the photo above. Without a little oily air from time to time, O-rings don’t get moisturized and residual condensation runs amok.
Plus, if you’re flying GIB with a buddy in the front who decides today is the day to get distracted during the landing phase, knowing what’s required from the rear pit won’t help the outcome if you can’t move the lever.
Other Yak lore you may have heard about: having the bad luck to have enough air system pressure to start the motor & begin taxying even though you forgot to open the main air valve.
Everything proceeds swimmingly on your way to the holding point until suddenly the brakes seem ineffective. Only those who practice it, or neurotically verify the Main air valve IS on during taxi, will know precisely where to quickly grab and turn - because just a few quarter turns will fix all braking ills - if you can do it quickly enough.
There IS a situation when you don’t want any air in the braking system.
That button on the instructor’s stick momentarily defeats the brake system air pressure - if, for example, the student has over-applied brakes, got the plane skidding on the runway and directional control has been lost.
Chances are, at this point, front cockpit guy will be white-knuckling that brake lever for all he is worth, at which point the Instructor will most likely be shaking the stick to take control while providing some ‘verbal encouragement’.
In a situation like this, sometimes having no brakes will help. If enough forward speed has been lost such that a go-around is no longer an option, momentarily defeating the brakes and allowing your one-ton Combine harvester to roll freely on its tires, ( or at least pulsing the button and limiting the skid) might be your Instructor’s best bet.
As soon as she releases that button on the top of her control column, normal brake function is restored.
But just like the gear lever, this button, too, is seemingly irresistible to five-year-olds of all ages, so include it in the list of things not to be touched when non-pilot passengers are briefed.
Flights to “knock the rust off” are perhaps more critical to brief thoroughly than flights in the middle of the season, when everyone has been current for weeks.
So in the coming days of May and June 2020, if you’ve agreed to help a buddy get back in the air after being grounded for eight weeks or more, be like Gena (and all conscientious Yak 52 GIB safety pilots) - be sure to back P1 up with use of your rear seat Gear lever. You’re not diminishing anybody’s skill or being disrespectful by doing so, as long as it was briefed beforehand.
It’s like insurance you’ll both be glad you took out.
Discuss the go-around, discuss that you plan to back up the PIC’s landing actions by putting your gear lever down too, also during the taxi, landing & roll out and agree on the mouth music you’ll both use to communicate between your cockpits.
With you now strapped in the rear seat & ready to go flying, select the rear undercarriage lever Down as part of pre-flight checks. When on the ground, the rear selector remains down at all times.
Under normal circumstances, ensure the rear selector is always locked, too. The rear lever will only ever need to be moved from Down to Neutral and back Down at the appropriate stages of the flight.
(The only reason to move the rear selector Up would be in an emergency, perhaps to help the task-saturated man in the front, for example, to get the gear up for a forced landing.)
After you’re airborne, at an agreed safe moment, your rear selector goes to Neutral.
On approach to landing, once the gear has been fully extended by the occupant of the front cockpit (three greens!), the rear selector goes down and remains down until the next take-off or go-around.
Now back to the next solo flight immediately following the dual flight just described.
When preparing the rear cockpit for a solo flight, never move the rear selector to Neutral before making sure the lever in the FRONT is Down and locked!
Dozens of pilots have been caught by this. They quickly land after joining the “stiff leg” club. They’re red-faced and perhaps a little rushed to correct their oversight. “Open that rear canopy quick!....Get to Neutral you little bugger!....”
“OH, CRAP!! Selector in the front is still UP!“
Now THAT’s expensive.
We’ve already put up with enough bad things to remember 2020 for - let’s look out for one another and keep any gear up’s out of the picture!
TYC thanks Gennady Elfimov for overseeing the technical content of this article. If you’d like training from the best Yak 52 Instructor on the Planet, start with a visit to http://skytrace.co.uk
That red ribbon in the image below is the forward limit of 52 control column travel.
In this early design, the customer liked the radio placement for ergonomics, however the right hand knob on the GTR 250 would have got wiped off as you can see below..
Anyone who tells you this stuff can be done with 2D CAD is holding one hand behind their back with their fingers crossed. Why risk costly disappointment?
The blank 52 billet panel comes with two repro knobs and new brackets ( sorry, no new drop pins yet), leaving you free to design and cut your own layout.
If you'd like 3D design help, please give us a call at 619 933-2571. CAD models of all the Chinese and Russian instruments are available as well as most of the popular American avionics.
Why settle for flat sheet metal ?
Billet panels are available for Yak 50,52,55 and CJ
To get started on your new cockpit, go to www.theyakcollection.com and type PANEL in the search box.
Customer referrals available !
The Yak Collection...No Nasty Surprises.
John flies out of KSEE whenever he can scrape together a few bucks to fill the tanks